A rabbit that suddenly eats less, produces smaller droppings or leaves its favourite greens is not simply being fussy. Rabbits rely on a near-constant supply of fibre to keep their digestive system moving. This rabbit nutrition guide sets out the practical daily balance that helps support healthy teeth, digestion and body condition, whether you keep one house rabbit or a busy pair in an outdoor run.

The foundation of a rabbit nutrition guide

For most healthy adult rabbits, good-quality feeding hay or grass should make up around 85-90% of the diet. It is not just bedding or something to nibble between meals. Long-fibre forage is the main feed, helping to wear down continuously growing teeth and supporting normal gut movement.

Hay should be available at all times, in more than one area if rabbits live together. A rabbit should be eating an amount roughly equal to its own body size every day, although there will be variation between individuals. Fresh hay that smells sweet, looks clean and is free from dust or mould is usually well accepted. Meadow hay is a useful everyday choice, while timothy and other grass hays can provide variety.

Fresh grass can also be an excellent source of fibre where it is safe, untreated and introduced gradually. Do not move a rabbit from a hay-based diet straight onto a large area of lush grass. The change can upset the gut. Offer short sessions first, increasing access over several days while checking droppings and appetite.

Alfalfa hay is richer in protein and calcium than grass hay. It can suit growing youngsters, underweight rabbits or nursing does when used appropriately, but it is usually too rich as the main forage for healthy adult rabbits. For adult pets, grass-based hay is the reliable starting point.

Pellets: small portion, useful purpose

Rabbit pellets are designed to complement forage, not replace it. A measured daily portion can help provide vitamins and minerals, particularly where the rest of the diet is carefully controlled. The mistake is filling a bowl and topping it up whenever it becomes empty. Rabbits given unlimited pellets may eat less hay, gain excess weight and miss out on the tooth and digestive benefits of long fibre.

Choose a plain, uniform pellet made for rabbits rather than a colourful muesli-style mix. Selective feeding is common with mixes: rabbits often pick out the starchy pieces and leave the higher-fibre parts behind. A uniform pellet makes it easier to control what is eaten.

As a general guide, many adult rabbits need only a small egg-cup-sized portion of pellets daily, adjusted for their size, age, weight, activity level and the advice on the feed packaging. Large breeds, very active rabbits and those with specific veterinary needs may require more. Overweight rabbits may need a more restricted ration, but forage should never be restricted without veterinary advice.

Make any feed change gradually over at least 7-14 days. Mix a small amount of the new pellet with the old food, then slowly increase the new proportion. Sudden dietary changes can cause digestive upset, especially in rabbits that are already prone to soft stools or reduced appetite.

Fresh greens for variety and hydration

Leafy greens add interest, moisture and a wider range of nutrients. For an adult rabbit used to fresh food, aim for a generous handful of mixed leafy greens per kilogram of body weight each day. Variety matters more than relying heavily on one item.

Useful options include romaine lettuce, spring greens, kale in modest amounts, coriander, parsley, dill, mint, basil, celery leaves and carrot tops. Wash produce well, offer it fresh and remove any uneaten greens before they spoil. Introduce one new green at a time, in a small quantity, so it is easier to identify the cause if droppings become soft.

Some leafy foods are higher in calcium or oxalates, including spinach, parsley and kale. They are not automatically off limits, but they are better rotated with other greens rather than fed as the entire daily portion. This is particularly sensible for rabbits with a history of bladder sludge, urinary stones or other urinary concerns. Your vet can advise on an appropriate diet for those rabbits.

Iceberg lettuce has little nutritional value and may cause loose droppings in some rabbits. Avoid relying on it as a green food. A bowl of mixed, rabbit-safe leaves is a far better use of the fresh-food allowance.

Treats should stay genuinely small

Fruit, carrots and commercial treats are popular because rabbits enjoy sweet foods. That does not make them everyday staples. Carrots are vegetables, but they are still relatively high in sugar for a rabbit diet. Think of a thin slice of carrot, a small berry or a thumbnail-sized piece of apple as an occasional treat, not a bowlful.

Too many sugary treats can reduce hay intake, encourage weight gain and upset the balance of bacteria in the gut. Avoid yoghurt drops, cereal-based treats, bread, biscuits and foods containing added sugar. Rabbits do not need these products to be happy or well fed.

Avoid feeding avocado, chocolate, onion, garlic, rhubarb, raw potato, tomato leaves, houseplants or lawn clippings. Lawn clippings can ferment quickly and should never be offered, even when the grass itself would have been safe to graze. When in doubt, leave unfamiliar plants out of the diet until they have been properly identified as rabbit-safe.

Water and feeding set-up matter too

Fresh drinking water must be available at all times. Many rabbits drink more naturally from a heavy ceramic bowl than a bottle, though either can work when kept clean and checked daily. In warm weather, outdoor rabbits may need water refreshed more often. In winter, check bottles and bowls regularly for freezing.

Place hay close to the toilet area if practical. Rabbits often like to eat while toileting, and this simple set-up can encourage forage intake. Keep food bowls low and stable, and feed rabbits separately when one is quicker or more dominant around food. In pairs or groups, providing several hay piles and water points reduces competition.

Feeding young, senior and unwell rabbits

Young rabbits have different needs from adults. They require plentiful forage and may be offered a suitable junior pellet, with portions adjusted as they grow. Any fresh foods should be introduced carefully once the rabbit is settled and eating well. If you are taking home a young rabbit, continue the breeder or rescue's existing diet at first before making gradual changes.

Senior rabbits can lose weight because of dental disease, arthritis, reduced mobility or other health problems. A softer or chopped forage option, soaked pellets or a higher-calorie diet may be useful in some cases, but unexplained weight loss needs veterinary attention rather than guesswork. The same applies to a rabbit that stops eating, appears hunched, has diarrhoea or produces very few droppings. Rabbit digestive problems can become serious quickly.

Rabbits recovering from illness may need a specific feeding plan, including recovery feed, pain relief or dental treatment prescribed by a vet. Do not try to correct a poor appetite by offering extra fruit or treats. The priority is finding and treating the reason the rabbit is not eating.

A simple daily routine

A workable routine is to refresh hay and water each morning, offer the measured pellet allowance and check that normal droppings are present. Give greens once daily or split them between morning and evening. In the evening, top up hay again and remove any wilted fresh food.

Watch the rabbit rather than feeding by the clock alone. A healthy rabbit should spend a good part of the day eating hay, show interest in food and pass plentiful, round droppings. Weighing your rabbit regularly is also useful, particularly for house rabbits where gradual weight gain can be easy to miss.

At Jalex Pet Products, the practical aim is simple: keep a steady supply of quality forage, choose a suitable rabbit pellet, add fresh greens sensibly and save sweeter foods for the occasional treat. Consistency is one of the best things you can provide, alongside enough space to move, companionship where appropriate and prompt veterinary help when eating habits change.